It sometimes seems that wherever we go we’re following in the footsteps of one Ernest Hemingway, particularly when it comes to bars! The Nobel Prize–winning author could not only write, but drink way better than most. From his time in places like Paris, South of France, Havana, Lima, Venice and the United States, Hemingway loved a drink. From the fanciest hotel bars to dirtiest dives – as long as the drinks were good – he was eager to indulge.
Here, we take a look at some of Hemingway’s favourite bars around the world where our paths might have crossed!
The Ritz (Paris, France)
The Ritz, which we recently visited, is so closely tied to the author – who set part of The Sun Also Rises (1926) here – that a bar here is named after him. Hemingway famously liberated the hotel from German forces in 1944, racking up a bar tab of 51 dry martinis shortly thereafter.
Hotel Lutetia (Paris, France)
Another of Hemingway’s many Parisian haunts, Hotel Lutetia is where James Joyce wrote part of Ulysses (1922), with Hemingway acting as occasional editor between drinks. The hotel has relatively recently reopened after renovation.
Caffé Roma (Alassio, Italy)
This may have slipped under the radar but there are photographs of Hemingway at the bar in the 1950s when he suggested to the painter Mario Berrino (former owner of the caffé) that the wall of the public garden opposite should be covered with small tiles signed by celebrities. Et voilà!
Les Deux Garcons (Aix-en-Provence, France)
Now closed due to a 2019 fire, this has been Aix’s most famous brasserie since it opened in 1792. Paul Cézanne, Émile Zola, Albert Camus, Ernest Hemingway, and other prominent figures all spent time here.
Hotel Casa de Suecia (Madrid, Spain)
Hemingway had a lifelong love affair with Spain. He visited many times from the 1920s and throughout the 1930s – when he covered the Spanish Civil War – to his final visit in 1960. People joke that there are few places in Madrid that don’t claim Ernest Hemingway drank there, but he definitely had his favourites. Including this place where he lived here in the fifties. It has since been fully renovated and is now owned by NH group who’ve since installed the aptly-named Hemingway Cocktail Bar.
Café Iruña (Pamplona, Spain)
Hemingway who documented his Pamplona experiences in his novel ‘The Sun Also Rises’, fell in love with Pamplona and its bars, most of which are still there today in the main square. Quite possibly his favourite was this one founded in 1888. It’s one of the most beautiful places in Pamplona to have a drink because its original appearance has been painstakingly preserved.
Just as Hemingway’s novel pays homage to Café Iruña, the venue itself pays homage to Hemingway by having a quiet designated bar area called ‘El Rincón de Heminway’ where you can find the writer himself in the form of a bronze statue which leans over the bar as if waiting to be served, as Hemingway would have done so many times before.
Harry’s Bar (Venice, Italy)
During Hemingway’s time in Venice in the late ’40s, he practically lived at Harry’s Bar, where he had a table of his own and often drank with the owner. The bar features in his short story Over the River and Into the Trees (1950).
Today’s artist is still with us but sadly is no longer able to sing because she’s suffering from motor-neurone disease.
Internationally hailed as one of the greatest songstresses of our time, Grammy Award winning Roberta Flack (1937 – ) remains unparalleled in her ability to tell a story through her music. Her songs bring insight into our lives, loves, culture and politics, while effortlessly traversing a broad musical landscape from pop to soul to folk to jazz. She is the only solo artist to win the Grammy Award Record of the Year for two consecutive years: The First Time Ever I Saw Your Face (1973) and Killing Me Softly with His Song (1974).
Classically trained on the piano from an early age, Flack received a music scholarship at age 15 to attend Howard University. Discovered while singing at the Washington, DC nightclub Mr. Henry’s by jazz musician Les McCann, she was immediately signed to Atlantic Records. With a string of hits, including the two mentioned above, plus Where Is the Love (a duet with former Howard University classmate Donny Hathaway), Feel Like Makin’ Love, The Closer I Get to You, Tonight I Celebrate My Love, and Set the Night to Music, Roberta Flack has inspired countless artists with her music.
Described by Reverend Jesse Jackson as “socially relevant and politically unafraid”, Flack is very active as a humanitarian and mentor. She founded the Roberta Flack School of Music at the Hyde Leadership Charter School in the Bronx, providing an innovative and inspiring music education programme to underprivileged students free of charge.
In 2010, Flack founded The Roberta Flack Foundation whose mission statement is to support animal welfare and music education. In 2019, she awarded grants to Anasa Troutman’s Shelectricity and filmmaker Carol Swainson.
In 2018, Flack retired from touring though continues to make special appearances.
In 2020, Flack received a Grammy Lifetime Achievement Award. In addition, she raised awareness and funds for Feed The Children.org during the COVID-19 pandemic.
One of the many things France is famous for is lingerie, lots of lingerie. I’ve previously covered the reasonably-priced Etam, but today we’re going decidedly upmarket – just in time for Christmas.
One of the inventions to have made the lives of 20th and 21st century women easier is the modern bra, which replaced the stifling corset.
It was invented by a Frenchwoman, Herminie Cadolle. She went on to found Maison Cadolle, which is one of the top haute couture lingerie houses still making made-to-measure underwear.
The company, which has remained small and today has 15 employees, has been passed on from mother to daughter through six generations: Herminie, Marie, Marguerite, Alice and now Poupie and Patricia (pictured below).
How it all began
Cadolle is one of the few older French entrepreneurial families headed by a woman. Herminie Cadolle (1845 – 1926) was an exceptional woman and a feminist. Early on, she moved to Paris with her husband and sister, to work as a seamstress making corsets. It was a period when it was exceptional for women to have a job.
It made her very aware of the inequalities between men and women, and she became involved in the militant cause of the Paris Commune (a radical, working- class, anti-religious and revolutionary movement in power March-May 1871, but was suppressed by the French army during the semaine sanglante – The Bloody Week).
She was fighting for the rights of workers and for equal rights for women. Being both a feminist and a woman who made corsets led to her creating the bra, because she wanted to liberate women. She literally cut a corset in two, and from then on worked to create a garment which would cover the bust only.
One of her sketches shows that the very first version was still attached to the corset, but even that was revolutionary.
She fled France for fear of reprisals for her part in the Paris Commune and settled in Argentina where she set up the first “House of Cadolle” and quickly made a fortune before returning to France. On her return, she patented her new invention which she called the corselet-gorge and exhibited it at the Exposition Universelle of 1889, for which the Eiffel Tower had been built.
The top was supported by straps, while the lower part was a corset for the waist. It was not an immediate success. She had created it to free women, but she was ahead of her time.
Tiny waists were in fashion and you could not achieve that without wearing a full corset. It was not until WWI, when women had to work in the factories, that the idea of a bra, which was more practical, became acceptable.
She worked tirelessly for years to improve her invention. New techniques and materials, notably rubber and the introduction of elastic, meant she could make real improvements and a garment that was easier to wear.
When it was invented there was not a name for breasts in everyday French language and gorge, which is now the throat, was used to cover the area from the base of the neck to the base of the bosom. (The French still use soutien-gorge, eschewing brassière, an ‘upper arm support’ from which comes the English ‘bra’).
In 1911, Marie Cadolle, Herminie’s daughter, decided to move premises from the Chaussée d’Antin to Rue Cambon, which quickly became the centre of haute couture, with all the big names, such as Chanel and Hermès setting up there, too.
The Fashion Houses sent clients to Cadolle which would adapt its underwear to create the underlying form for the fashion shape of the time.
In 1925, the flat-chested form was in vogue and Marguerite, who took over from Marie, created the first flattening bra, for Coco Chanel. She also made underwear for many other famous women of the time. In 1947, the tiny waist was back and my Alice invented the ‘waspie’ for Monsieur Rochas’ fashion and perfume company.
Women’s shape and the lingerie they wear are constantly changing to suit the fashion of the time. Since Patricia started working at Cadolle about 20 years ago, she has seen an increase on average of 10cm (4″) around the waist.
Cadolle’s role has changed since Herminie. Its main aim now is to create garments which make women feel good about their bodies and are comfortable to wear. The second aim is to make a woman feel desirable. Sensuality has become more important. This is associated with women’s sense of independence. They are proud of their bodies.
Nonetheless, Cadolle has worked to keep its traditional techniques alive and make underwear in France for all shapes and sizes. As Patricia explains:
In France we have held on to our savoir-faire, so that despite economic pressures, we have continued to pass on our skills down the generations to continue to make the best, handmade underwear.
There are three important parts to a bra: the cup, the back and the straps. The back has to be sufficiently well made so it will stay in place and support the breasts and the straps, too, have to give support. All three need to be well designed and well made for the bra to do its job and be comfortable all day long.
As well as it’s ready-to-wear range, Cadolle offers a bespoke made-to-measure service where after studying your morphology and understanding what effect you want to achieve, the House makes a blank model for fitting. Only then will it look at materials and discuss colour. Cadolle makes its own dyes, so if you want green it can offer 10 different shades. Then there will be a final fitting before the bra is ready for collection. The process takes around a month and costs around €700, much more expensive than a €50 bra from Etam.
A good bra in the shops would cost about €250; Cadolle’s off-the-peg ones start at €200 and a top-brand luxury name would be on average €250-€300.
Yes, it is expensive but it is an investment. It will last forever and it will make you feel good. When you don’t wear a good bra you are uncomfortable the whole day. With a good bra your clothes will look good on you.
All images courtesy of Cadolle
It’s Sunday and today’s photo is from ma belle France.
Looking for an easy and flavourful seafood dish? Look no further than these pan -seared scallops with cherry tomatoes, black olives and capers. – sauce Provençal. Delicious on their own but insanely good over angel-hair pasta or rice. This dish takes less than 30 minutes to whip up – always a bonus in my book – but tastes and looks like it’s from a fancy French restaurant!
The sauce doesn’t just go with scallops, it’s delicious with lamb, chicken, salmon, tofu, cauliflower……..endless possibilities!
1. Firstly, make the sauce in a large frying (skillet) pan over medium heat, add the butter and cook, tilting the pan frequently, until butter has lightly browned. It should smell nutty and have amber bits on the bottom of the pan.
2. Add the olive oil and crushed red pepper flakes, sauté for a minute before adding . the garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, for another minute, or until garlic is fragrant.
3. Add the cherry tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until they’re soft and squishy, but still hold their shape, about 8 minutes.
4. Stir in the olives and capers and cook for 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Add in the white wine, stir, and allow the mixture to come to a gentle simmer.
5. Stir in the herbs, lemon juice and seasoning, and cook for 2 minutes. Keep warm while you cook the scallops.
6. See my earlier recipe for how to prepare the scallops. Rinse them with cold water and pat very dry with a few sheets of paper towels. You want to make sure you get as much moisture out of them as possible. Set aside on a paper towel.
7. Add the butter and oil to a large frying (skillet) pan over a high heat. While the pan heats up, lightly salt the scallops.
8. Once the pan begins to lightly smoke, gently add the scallops clockwise into the pan, making sure they are not touching. Sear them for about 90 seconds, then gently flip and cook for another 30 seconds or so, until both sides are golden brown. DO NOT TOUCH or move touch them at all while they’re searing. Remove from the heat.
9. Top with sauce, and serve preferably over pasta or rice.
This sauce is delicious with pretty much anything! It can be made ahead of time but, if you do, only add the herbs and lemon juice and cook for 2 minutes just before serving.
In years past it wasn’t uncommon for us to visit back-to back dental exhibitions in Paris and New York. This post heads way back to 2011.
I have spent the past three days pounding the pavements of Paris, the world’s most visited city. Like all great cities, you see far more if you religiously navigate its various quarters on foot. Although I always have a small map, just in case, it’s hard to get lost as the wide boulevards give you glimpses of major landmarks at every turn, plus the Seine, which neatly bisects the city, is a great navigational tool.
Over the years, I’ve spent a significant amount of time here and have visited most of the galleries, museums and buildings of significant historical interest. Of course, if the weather’s bad, I’ll happily revisit one of these. But, if it’s not, I just enjoy wandering around gazing at the impressive architecture and pressing my nose to the windows of all the food shops.
My favourites are the patisseries and chocolatiers. But lest you fear for my waistline, I only window shop. If I do enter, it’s only to get a closer look. I don’t buy anything, not even for my beloved because this is the food of gods. Wondrous pastries, delicate cakes and delicious dark, crisp chocolate with subtle aromas. While a couple of squares of chocolate will do no harm, it’s hard to resist the rest. So, I enter, inhale and exit.
Of course, I had to pay homage at Pierre Hermé’s temple of delicious comestibles. IMHO he’s perfected the art of the macaroon, as ubiquitous in France as the cup cake is in America. Pierre’s melt in the mouth with an intense burst of flavour which lingers on the palate. Okay, I’ll come clean, I just had to have one, or two.
My window gazing extends to butchers, bakers, delicatessens and cheese shops, plus I love visiting the street markets. Where else would you find stalls dedicated to just one product such as the humble potato. The stall owner who patiently explained to me about which spuds were best for which dish had over 20 different varieties. Another was dedicated to Pinky and Perky. Again the stall owner, who had raised and slaughtered the pigs, was happy to spend time answering my questions about his sausages, charcuterie, porchetta, pate and other porky products. We even exchanged a couple of recipes as I imparted my special rub for what my sister calls “the best roast pork ever”.
No visit to Paris would be complete without a rummage around the many antiques shops and art galleries. Typically, I found some things I would have liked to purchase but it would have been wholly impractical given our next destination is New York.
Maybe it’s the time of year, but Paris is overrun with Asians, and not just Japanese. No doubt the stores and French economy are duly grateful as the ones I’ve seen have been heavily laden with shopping bags from their favourite stores: LVMH, Gucci, Hermes and so on. The love affair is reciprocated as Paris has an astounding number of great Asian restaurants, particularly Japanese.
With my beloved working, and being entertained by clients in the evening, I’ve been left pretty much to my own devices, a wholly desirable state of affaires. Meaning I can do what I want, when I want. I am however taking him out for a relaxing dinner a deux this evening at a little gem of a place I have found on my meanderings: just the one Michelin star.
The weather’s been a bit cold, damp and foggy. In fact you can’t see the top of the Eiffel Tower. The Xmas decorations are up and there’s a festive buzz in the air. Only a month or so to go until the big day. Of course, the decorations are restrained but classy and stylish as befits the capital of fashion. We’re off to New York tomorrow morning where the decorations will be larger than life, really full on and totally appropriate for the Big Apple.
Here are a few doors from our most recent trip to Paris.
Thursday Doors is a weekly feature allowing door lovers to come together to admire and share their favourite door photos from around the world. Feel free to join in the fun by creating your own Thursday Doors post each week and then sharing your link in the comments’ on Dan’s site, anytime between Thursday morning and Saturday noon (North American Eastern Time).
The rules for Brian’s Last on the Card prompt are pretty simple:
1. Post the last photo on your SD card and/or last photo on your phone for the end of the month.
2. No editing – who cares if it is out of focus, not framed as you would like or the subject matter didn’t co-operate.
3. You don’t have to give any explanations, just the photo will do
4. Create a Pingback to this post or link in the comments
5. Tag “The Last Photo”
I was recently blissfully alone while my beloved was on a cycling holiday in Gran Canaria. I could’ve gone with him but chose not to. The allure of eight whole days on my own was just too much to pass up despite the photos he sent me daily.
This isn’t my beloved’s first trip on his lonesome this year but the others were just amuse-gueules (nibbles) to this main course.
With him home underfoot, all the time, there are various chores that are simply not possible to undertake. Yes, surprisingly, I’ve been getting stuff sorted at home. It’s been wonderful not having to prepare meals three-times a day, and that’s from someone who loves cooking though I did prepare him a wonderful welcome home meal.
Just before he left, we took possession of the locked garage of the couple we allow to share our double parking spot. They don’t use their enclosed garage because it’s difficult to manoeuvre their car in and out. This has now become our bike room, also known as my beloved’s man cave. This meant I could turn the bike room in our flat back into the laundry room – hurrah!
I cleared all of his bike related stuff out and was shocked at how much was in there! My beloved is a bit like a big cat marking out his territory, he loves leaving his things everywhere apart from my bathroom – yes, we have separate bathrooms – and my dressing room.
Dressing room makes it sound rather grand, it’s more of a walk-in cupboard but the space is well-thought out and you’d be amazed at how much is stored in there. This week I have had my annual wardrobe culling. I’ve been very thorough and I’m sure the Ukrainian refugees (intended recipients) will be grateful.
I’m generally an investment dresser so there are things in my wardrobe that are
probably definitely older than many of my readers, particularly scarves, jackets, shoes and coats. This enables me to “shop in my closet” when they come back into fashion. A case in point are square toed shoes which have been brought to the front of the base of my built-in wardrobe where they reside in see-through boxes, stored with shoe trees. This is where I put stuff that needs to be hung full-length such as dresses, coats, long skirts and trousers. Jackets, tops and jeans are in the dressing room.
Lest it sound as though I hog all of the storage, I should point out that my beloved has a larger dressing room, two very large wardrobes and a built-in closet!
In addition, stuff we wear infrequently, such as ski wear, is stored in our basement storage. What can I say? When you get to our respective ages, you tend to have a lot of stuff. His will be culled over the Christmas period. He’s far more of a hoarder than me and likes to hang onto things just in case…….
After a whole week of cleaning and tidying I was feeling very virtuous, smug even. The
bike-room laundry aside my beloved didn’t even notice what I’d been up to. This is largely because everything is now hidden again behind closed doors maintaining the flat’s neat and tidy appearance.
Friends who recently paid us a visit remarked on how clean and tidy everything was and asked for the name and number of my cleaner. I confessed that sadly she didn’t have any more hours available but, if she did, I’d let them know. The reason I know this? I do all the cleaning!
Wednesday is devoted to photos from Australia taken on one of my many #adventuresdownunder.