View from the Back
Ramblings of a retiree in France
Trip to Cuenca: Part II
We spent two whole days in Cuenca. We spent the first day walking all around the town and the following day visiting the museums and cathedral.
Here’s some of what we saw during our couple of days in Cuenca.
1. The Casas Colgadas
As you approach Cuenca, you can’t help but look up and be both captivated and concerned by the way buildings seem to jut out precariously over the steep edge of the promontory that plunges into the river gorge rather than sit squarely atop the hill.
No one knows for sure the origin of the three houses but they were likely built between 15th and 16th centuries and are portrayed in paintings as far back as 1565. Some say they were built during the Moorish period; others that they are medieval.
Regardless, while at least eight of the original buildings survived into 20th century, by the 1920s only three were left. The town council bought them and preserved them in order to avoid losing them altogether.
They’ve served many purposes over the years – as lodging for visiting monarchs, a sanctuary for artists and the poor and even a mint for making pesetas.
Today, they house the Museo de Arte Abstracto Español, the city’s premier abstract-art museum founded in the 1960s, as well as a highly acclaimed restaurant that sadly wasn’t open during our trip.
One of Cuenca’s three hanging houses is called La Casa de la Sirena (The House of the Mermaid). Legend has it that this was where King Enrique IV de Castilla locked up his lover, a woman named Catalina, and their illegitimate son, Gonzalo. The superstitious monarch, who had killed his brother Pedro “El Cruel” to gain the throne of Castilla, was told by a seer that blood was on his hands for this murder and that a similar fate would happen to his own son. Enrique sent his men to kill Gonzalo, driving Catalina to throw herself off the cliff in despair. It’s said that you can still hear her anguished screams echoing across the canyon at night.
2. Puente de San Pablo
We stayed in the Parador on the opposite side of the ravine to Cuenca’s Old Town. To reach it we had to cross what I referred to the “wibbly, wobbly bridge. Though, to be fair, it does offer great views of Cuenca.
Indeed, the Casas Colgadas are best viewed from the middle point of the Puente de San Pablo footbridge. I had to muster the courage (and control my fear of heights) to cross this long and narrow wooden bridge to get to the other side, where the views of the houses along the ridge are even more spellbinding, particularly at nightfall.
3. Iglesia de San Pablo
A Dominican church and former convent with a striking neo-Gothic facade. While it looks less precarious than the Casas Colgadas, this 16th century building also appears to lean over a cliff edge on one side. The exterior is impressive in its own right and it houses the Espacio Torner contemporary art museum, exhibiting 40 important works of the conquense artist and sculptor Gustavo Torner (born 1925), donated by the Centro de Arte Reina Sofía in Madrid. Adjacent to the museum is the Parador de Cuenca where we stayed.
4. Sagrado Corazón de Jesús
Atop the Hoz del Huécar is where the Sagrado Corazón de Jesús statue watches over the city of Cuenca – smaller but reminiscent of the iconic Cristo Redentor statue in Rio de Janeiro.
This is by far the best vantage point to contemplate sweeping views of the city below, set against an awe-inspiring backdrop of the Parque Natural de la Serranía de Cuenca.
5. Cuenca’s museums
Cuenca’s cutting-edge Museo Paleontológico de Castilla-La Mancha (MUPA) is anchored by its appropriately child-friendly dinosaur exhibition, Tierra de Dinosaurios. However, this is a serious paleontology museum with key specimens on display that have been instrumental in scientific breakthroughs.
Spacious modern galleries are decorated with locally found fossils, skeletons and skulls, plus mock-ups of enormous Cretaceous-era reptiles like the titanosaur, among the largest land creatures to ever walk the earth.
Cuenca’s archaeological history continues at the Museo de Cuenca where a wide collection of Roman artifacts from Segóbriga and Valeria ruins is explored.
Fundación Antonio Pérez, a modern art gallery inside the Convento de las Carmelitas, next to our Parador, offers an eclectic collection of abstract Spanish art. There’s a permanent collection of abstract and modern art celebrating more contemporary styles at Colección Fundación Roberto Polo, housed inside a former church. And as mentioned above, situated in the Casas Colgadas, Museo de Arte Abstracto Español celebrates Spain’s abstract movement from the 1950s and 1960s.
6. Casco Antiguo (Old Quarter)
At its heart is the lively San Juan Plaza Mayor town square (which resembles more of a trapezoid), converging baroque and Gothic structures, colourfully painted buildings, outdoor terraces and watering holes.
It is accessed through three arched gateways at the foot of the beautiful baroque building, the Casas Consistoriales Ayuntamiento, which houses the Cuenca Town Hall. On the opposite end is another baroque structure painted in bright pink, 16th century Convento de las Petras.
The plaza’s showpiece is the Catedral de Cuenca, the first Gothic cathedral of Castilla, built between the 12th and 13th centuries on the site of the main mosque, after the city was captured by Alfonso VIII in 1177.
Cuenca’s history was covered in yesterday’s Part I
Trip to Cuenca: Part I
A World Heritage Site, Cuenca is one of Spain’s most memorable cities, its old centre a stage set of evocative medieval buildings, many painted in bright colours, stacked on a steep promontory at the meeting of two deep river gorges: the Río Huécar and Río Júcar.
Narrow meandering streets separate tall houses with wooden balconies that literally jut out over the sheer cliffs. Yet, despite its age and UNESCO listing, Cuenca has somewhat ironically established itself as a centre of abstract modern art. Two of its most iconic buildings – including one of the famed casas colgadas (hanging houses) – have transformed their interiors into modern galleries. It’s a theme continued in many of the town’s hotels, museums and restaurants.
How it all began
While several Roman settlements existed in the surrounding province, the site of present-day Cuenca was likely uninhabited until the arrival of the Muslims in 714. Recognising the natural defensive strength of the narrow escarpment between the Júcar and Huécar river gorges, they built a fortress called Qal’at Kūnka (Kunka castle). Under Moorish rule, the city flourished as an agricultural and textile manufacturing hub and was a significant stronghold during the Caliphate of Córdoba and subsequent taifa state.
The city was a border plaza between Muslim and Christian lands for some time, changing hands temporarily in the late 11th century before being recaptured by the Almoravids.
King Alfonso VIII of Castile, leading a coalition of Christian forces, began a long siege in January 1177 and successfully conquered Cuenca on September 21, 1177, after the Muslim garrison’s supplies were compromised. He granted the city a comprehensive set of laws, the Fuero, which helped organise the new Christian territory and was widely respected. Cuenca became an episcopal see in 1183, and its cathedral, one of the first Gothic cathedrals in Spain, was built with Anglo-Norman influence. The city prospered during 15th and 16th centuries due to its thriving wool and textile industries.
The city’s fortunes began to wane in 17th century due to plague, droughts and economic crises. The decline of the textile industry was particularly sharp in 18th century when King Carlos IV restricted production to favour the Royal Tapestry Factory in Madrid. The next century brought further destruction during the Peninsular War against Napoleon’s troops and the Third Carlist War in 1874, leaving the city in a long period of stagnation.
Cuenca remained relatively isolated until the arrival of railroads and the development of the timber industry in late 19th and early 20th centuries, which provided a moderate boost. The city suffered further damage during the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939) and experienced significant depopulation in the post-war period due to economic hardship.
A slow recovery began in the latter half of 20th century, fueled by tourism and a renewed focus on culture. In 1996, the historic walled town of Cuenca was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site, recognising its unique medieval architecture and the way it blends with the dramatic natural landscape of the river gorges.
Our visit to Cuenca continues tomorrow with Part II.
The Numbers Game 22, Monday 17 November, 2025
Today’s lucky number yielded 141 photos from which I’ve selected 6 at random.
The challenge is kindly hosted by Life Lessons – a blog by Judy Dykstra-Brown
To play along, go to your photos’ file folder and type that number (221) into the search bar. Then post a selection of the photos you find including that number and post a link to your blog in Judy’s Numbers Game blog of the day – easy!
French Fancies: Betrand Prestige
Bertrand Prestige is a luxury interior design, architecture, and bespoke furniture company with a history dating back to 1965. It originated from a family business, Meubles Bertrand, founded by Hubert and Patsy Taïeb.
How it all began
Hubert Taïeb, a prominent French decorator and furniture designer founded Meubles Bertrand, in 1965 with his wife Patsy, a company initially specialising in classical interior decoration and creating interiors across the US, Europe, Africa, and Japan. he business grew into a renowned name in high-end furniture and decor, evolving into Bertrand Prestige.
He was known for a timeless aesthetic that blended classical roots with contemporary elements, focusing on exquisite craftsmanship and high-quality materials. A notable quote attributed to him is:
We constantly challenge ourselves: we will never do the same thing twice.
Hubert Taïeb passed away in March 2025.He is remembered for building a lasting legacy of design, craft, and connection, with his work continuing to influence the luxury interior design world through the companies he founded.
Over time, the company expanded its expertise to include contemporary designs. The second generation, their sons Laurent and Frédéric Taïeb, continued the family’s legacy through Bertrand Prestige and in 2013 the acquisition of the prestigious brand Hugues Chevalier known for its high-end, contemporary pieces inspired by the Art Deco movement of the 1930s.
The acquisition of the Hugues Chevalier brand facilitated the continuation and expansion of their design philosophy. Hubert Taïeb was instrumental in designing pieces for the brand, such as the “Rondo” sofa, a contemporary version of the iconic “Dominique” sofa.
Laurent Taïeb ran Bertrand Prestige as a dedicated entity to design luxurious, custom-made spaces. He was later joined by interior designer and his partner Pascale Taïeb.
The company is still under the leadership of Laurent Taïeb, with his son Sacha Taïeb bringing the family legacy into the digital era with a related venture, Onohome.
Bertrand Prestige is renowned for its blend of classical aesthetics with contemporary trends, focusing on high-end, luxury projects. Their services include:
- Interior Design: Specialising in residential (villas, palaces), commercial (hotels, offices), and public spaces, the studio provides full-service bespoke interior design, from initial consultation and space planning to 3D visualisation and project management.
- Architecture: Providing services for luxurious private residences and prestigious commercial buildings, integrating sustainability and cutting-edge technology, with a focus on sustainable and innovative solutions.
- Bespoke Furniture: Designing and manufacturing custom-made, high-quality furniture in workshops located in Italy and France, using premium materials like rare woods and luxurious fabrics.
- Exterior Design: Transforming outdoor environments with landscape design, terrace and patio design, and façade enhancements.
- Luxury finishings: Services also include the selection of premium materials and finishes, art curation, and lighting design.
- Global logistics: Bertrand Prestige offers professional delivery and white-glove installation services for its products worldwide.
Ethical excellence is the cornerstone of the company which believes in conducting business with honesty, integrity, and ethical responsibility in all its interactions, both internally and externally. Its eam is committed to upholding the highest standards of professionalism and ethical conduct.
The company’s portfolio includes a wide array of projects, such as private residences, villas, palaces, embassies, and high-end hospitality spaces. The company has completed over 450 projects worldwide.
Bertrand Prestige operates a showroom at 14 Avenue de Friedland in Paris, where clients can view curated spaces and discuss projects.
All images courtesy of Bertrand Prestige
The Musette: Slow Cooked Lamb with Couscous
This is another of my Shereeats dishes which I prepare, pack up and deliver for reheating and serving. Anything I can largely prepare and cook in advance is ideal for such situations.
This meltingly tender, slow cooked, Middle-Eastern lamb dish is the stuff of food dreams. Lovingly slathered in a deceptively simple but delicious spice rub then slowly cooked until it falls apart. The flavour and fragrance is absolutely heavenly. While it takes time to roast, it’s a very straight forward recipe – and will happily feed a crowd.
Ingredients (serves 5-6)
- 2kg (4 lb) lamb shoulder (bone in)
Spice paste:
- 5 garlic cloves , minced
- 1 tbsp ground coriander
- 1 tbsp ground cumin
- 1 tbsp ground cardamon
- 1 tsp fenugreek seeds
- 1 tsp fennel seeds
- 1 tsp cayenne pepper
- 2 tsp smoked paprika
- 1 1/2 tsp fine salt
- 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
- 60ml (1/4 cup) extra virgin olive oil
- juice and zest organic lemon
Serve:
- handful pomegranate seeds
- handful chopped coriander and flat leafed parsley
- lemon quarters
Method
1. Place all paste ingredients in a liquidiser and whiz up to form a wet paste that can be slathered onto the lamb in a roasting tray. I generally use disposable gloves to thoroughly massage it into the lamb.
2. I typically marinate the lamb for 24 hours (optional) in the fridge.
3. To cook the lamb, preheat oven to 180C/160C fan/350F/gas mark 4. Position the lamb with the fat side up. Pour 500ml (2 cups) vegetable stock (or water) around the lamb and cover the roasting tray tightly with aluminium foil.
4. Roast 3- 4 hours, removing from the oven 2 – 3 times to baste. When meat is tender, and falling off the bone, remove the foil.
5. Baste again, then return to oven for 30 minutes to get a nice crust. Remove lamb from roasting pan – reserve juices.
6. Allow lamb to cool slightly before pulling meat from the bone. To serve, slice or shred lamb, as desired. Drizzle with plenty of juices.
7. Pile the lamb over herbed couscous (recipe below), serve with minted yoghurt, and garnish with pomegranate seeds, mixed chopped herbs such as parsley and coriander (cilantro), and lemon quarters.
Sheree’s Handy Hints
1. This recipe can be made with both lamb leg and shoulder. I prefer to use lamb shoulder because it’s fattier and juicier than leg and, because of this, it reheats better.
2. Marinating is optional for this recipe because the slow cooking time allows the spices to penetrate and also the pan juices drizzled on the lamb have such an intense flavour.
3. Minted Yoghurt: Plain Greek yoghurt + finely chopped mint + lemon juice + olive oil + garlic clove + salt & pepper. Set aside 20 minutes.
4. Herb couscous: Combine 175g (3/4 cup) raisins or sultanas with 270g (11/2 cup) each couscous and 360ml hot vegetable stock. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap), leave for 10 minutes. Fluff with fork. Stir through lots of finely chopped parsley, mint, lemon zest, juice, chopped pistachio nuts, salt, pepper and extra virgin olive oil to taste.
5. If not serving straight away, let the lamb cool then refrigerate in the pan juices. It reheats beautifully!
Friday’s Tall Tales #131
Whenever I photograph a door or gate I wonder about its provenance, who and what has happened across said door or gate, and what lies beyond.
I thought I might pick one from my sextet of Thursday’s Doors and tell you a bit more about it or……maybe even weave a story about it.
These doorways are in Victor Hugo’s House, a museum located on Place des Vosges in the Marais, Paris, where Victor Hugo lived for 16 years between 1832 and 1848. It dates from 1605 when a lot was granted to Isaac Arnauld in the south-eastern corner of the square. It was substantially improved by the de Rohans family, who gave the building its current name of Hôtel de Rohan-Guéménée.
Victor Hugo was 30 when he moved into the house in October 1832 with his wife Adèle.They rented a spacious apartment on the second floor. The mansion was converted into a museum when a large donation was made by Paul Meurice to the City of Paris to buy the house.
The museum consists of an antechamber leading through the Chinese living room and medieval style dining room to Victor Hugo’s bedroom where he died in 1885.
Flowering Friday #131
I may not have green fingers but I enjoy nature. This post is my weekly homage to my parents who both enjoyed having a beautiful garden. My Dad ensured the lawn was as smooth and green as a billard table while Mum was responsible for a riot of colour all year round in the borders and pots.
Thursday doors #312
I’m still featuring French doors, largely local or from neighbouring departments.
Thursday Doors is a weekly feature allowing door lovers to come together to admire and share their favourite door photos from around the world. Feel free to join in the fun by creating your own Thursday Doors post each week and then sharing your link in the comments’ on Dan’s site, anytime between Thursday morning and Saturday noon (North American Eastern Time).
Trip to Tarragona
Tarragona, the capital of a province with the same name, sits along the Costa Daurada (Golden Coast) in south-eastern Spain. The region has been recognised three times by UNESCO. First, in 2000, the city was awarded the distinction of World Heritage site for its Roman archaeological legacy, including exceptional historical sites such as the city walls, the circus and the Amphitheatre. Tarragona also received UNESCO recognition for distinctions linked to its more recent culture: the castells (human towers) in 2010, and the Mediterranean diet in 2013.
How it all began
The area was inhabited from 5th century BC by Iberians, mainly in the Ebro Valley, who had commercial contacts with the Greeks and Phoenicians settled on the coast.
Tarraco is first mentioned after the arrival of Gnaeus Cornelius Scipio Calvus – what a mouthful – at Empúries in 218 BC at the start of the Second Punic War which began the Roman conquest of Hispania. The oldest Roman settlement on the Iberian Peninsula, Tarraco was a monumental architectural achievement.
As the Romans expanded across Europe, the Empire developed new techniques for urban design that are still used today. In ancient Tarraco, architects took a giant step into modernity when the city started using the area’s natural landscape to their advantage—and altering it where necessary. The result was a series of artificial terraces with the official buildings at the top and the residential areas stretching out towards the sea and the port.
Tarraco’s residential design wasn’t its only strength. The ancient site was a perfect illustration of urban and military planning. The defensive system of walls around the ancient city is one of the earliest examples of Roman engineering. It’s also impressive to note the use of quality materials, the marble used for the public buildings, and the richness of the architecture and sculptures.
Ancient sites and relics fill the city, such as the beachside Amphitheatre, the Praetorium and Roman Circus, the Cathedral and the Balcó del Mediterrani. some standing independently and others incorporated into more modern developments. From the triumphal arch, to the aqueduct and city walls, it’s easy to see Rome’s influence and the effect of the city’s former wealth and prestige.
The city is also home to one of the busiest commercial and nautical ports in the Mediterranean and it’s a stopover for cruise ships. Port Tarraco, a modern marina for yachts, is on the Moll de Costa pier which is well worth a visit.
Roman ruins aside, my favourite spot was Tarragona’s Central Market located just off Rambla Nova, housed in a hallmark Modernist building designed by Josep Maria Pujol i de Barberà in 1915, to centralise the different sales points distributed across the city. . This is where to find the real heartbeat of the city. It has three naves, mirrored in the three façades that give way to the Plaça Corsini and Carrer Cristòfor Colom. The Market’s design is reminiscent of the Born Market in Barcelona and the Otto Wagner Pavilion Karlsplatz in Vienna.
I believe I mentioned that my OH was very taken with the Cathedral which is dedicated to Saint Tecla. It was built on approximately the same site of the former Roman temple, which formed a part of the provincial forum. The forum was the seat of the Tarragona provincial government in 1st century AD and was built around two terraced squares. The upper square (the imperial cult complex) was surrounded by a portico, large portions of which can be seen today in the cloister of the city’s cathedral. At one end was a large hall, which has been identified as the cella (or inner sanctuary) of the temple.
Construction on the cathedral began in 12th century, in the Romanesque style and continued throughout the Gothic period. The building was consecrated in 1331; however, it could not be finished due to the Black Death, which took a severe toll on the region. The soaring entrance and rose window of its façade are one of the city’s most emblematic images.
At the cloister entrance, there’s the Diocesan Museum and spectacular Saint Tecla altarpiece. The cloister’s sculpture work is one of the best examples of Romanesque art in Catalonia and dates back to the turn of 13th century. There’s a delightful collection of mediaeval and modern religious art from Tarragona and its diocese. These include altarpieces, stone sculptures and wood carvings, goldwork, wrought-iron work, textiles, and ceramics.
Located between Via Augusta and the provincial forum, Tarragona’s circus used to hold horse and chariot races. watched by 30,000 spectators. The structure is considered one of the best-preserved circuses in the West, although some of the original structure remains hidden under 19th century buildings.
We were charmed by Tarragona’s history, culture and architecture.
View from the Back 