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Ramblings of a retiree in France
French Basque Country: Biarritz
I have waxed lyrical many a time about the Spanish Basque Country. Now’s the time to bang the drum for the Basque Country in France which I love just as much as its Spanish neighbour. It’s not just about beautiful landscapes and great food either, its culture is as fascinating as it is a little mystifying because the French Basques share the same language, culture and traditions as those of the Spanish. They too have managed to maintain a buccolic, country lifestyle but this time among those dark satanic hills of the Pyrenees-Atlantiques.
We’ve often stayed in the French Basque country en-route to Spain and I’m going to start with probably the jewel in its crown Biarritz which, by comparison with the French Riviera, is a relatively bling-free coastal getaway.
Napoleon III transformed Biarritz, formerly a fishing and whaling village, when he built a summer palace for his Princess Eugenie (now the Hotel du Palais). Just like that the health benefits of sea bathing became fashionable among European nobility who descended on Biarritz for the season in the late 1800s. Screenwriter Peter Viertel had a similar impact when he visited in 1957 to film The Sun Also Rises. Impressed by the waves, he sent for his surfboard from California and single-handedly introduced surfing to Europe.
The focus of Biarritz is the Casino Municipal, on the Grande-Plage. The loveliest places to stroll around are the streets between there and the Plage du Port-Vieux. Just beside the Plage du Port-Vieux, the most sheltered and intimate of the beaches, a rocky promontory sticks out into the sea, ending in an iron catwalk anchoring the Rocher de la Vierge, an offshore rock adorned with a white statue of the Virgin, which has become Biarritz’s trademark. Just below is the picturesque harbour of the Port des Pecheurs, backed by tamarisks and pink and blue hydrangeas. Beyond lies the Grande Plage, an immaculate sweep of sand that stretches past the casino, all the way to the lighthouse on the Pointe St-Martin.
Another icon, the lighthouse was built in 1834 and stands 73 metres above sea level overlooking Cape Hainsart (so called because of the oak trees which surrounded it in the past). It marks the boundary between the sandy Landes coast and the rocky coast of the Basque Country. It’s a climb of 248 steps to reach the top but it does offer an exceptional panoramic view of Biarritz and the Basque hinterland.
Also located in the Port-Vieux, you’ll find the neo-gothic Sainte Eugenie Church aka Imperial Chapel also built during the reign of Napoleon III in 1864, on Empress Eugenia’s request, in a Roman-Byzantine and Hispanic-Moorish style. In other words, a bit of a mash-up. It’s dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe and was listed as historical monument in 1981. While, the more centrally located Orthodox Alexandre Newsky Church (above) was built in the Byzantine style by Biarritz architect M. Tisnés. Inaugurated in September 1892, in the presence of members of the Russian imperial family, it has been classified as a Historical Monument since June 2015.
Biarritz has a beautiful red-brick covered market, Les Halles, fresh of façade after a complete renovation. Outside, fat seagulls circle, hopeful of a fishy morsel. I love wandering around markets and always make a point of checking out the produce. Here it was so fresh and beautiful, it looked as if it was sculpted from marzipan. At lunchtime, we enjoyed a few freshly shucked bivalves at an oyster bar.
As one might expect, Biarritz has a lively restaurant scene and plenty of nightlife to satisfy even the most dedicated of party goers. I appreciate that I haven’t even touched on many of its other charms such as its surf culture, golf courses, beautiful coastal walks and cycling highway – we have done that – but maybe this is enough to wet your appetite. Further towns to follow………
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Another enjoyable visit with you. Thanks.
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My pleasure
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Beautiful post and fantastic photos, Sheree. Les Halles is one of our favourite places to visit in Biarritz. Not only we love stocking up on fresh and local produce but also it’s always exciting to meet locals and learn more about certain foods. Thanks for sharing. Your photos bring back lots of lovely family memories. Aiva xxx
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Glad to have conjured up happy memories Aiva
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I had not known that there was a Basque community in France until visiting Northern Spain in 2010.
We were in San Sebastián and the city was full of rugby football supporters from Biarritz and Dublni. There was a European cup semi final taking place in the city. It confused me. I wasn’t at all sure why a Biarritz home fixture was being played in San Sebastián in Northern Spain but I learned later that Biarritz consider themselves to be the Rugby Union representatives of the wider Basque community so often play games in Spain especially for important fixtures when they need a bigger stadium than they have available in France.
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That’s very true
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I was born there in El Pais Vaco, little town called Eibar and now the footbal team is playing in the major leagues. Who would have that one…. Plus Biarritz in Rugby? Go figure that one out, nice to learn as always.
And thank you also Sheree
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I have visited Eibar many times. It’s lovely.
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It is, unless the Terrorist threan me and the familly, still got the letter of them, so might as well take a hike to another part of Spain, like thousands of others
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Thanks for stopping by!
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good Rugby there too ! pais vasco pays basque the same Euskadi. ….
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And princes Eugenie noo Imperatrice de Français, born in Belmonte (Cuenca) her family still holds the castle and see her Napoleon III room there in my posts.
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Thanks, I didn’t know that.
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My pleasure love history of my countries ::) Salut
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SW France famous for its rugby
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Yes mine is Stade Toulousan lol!!
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The history and picturesque beauty is appreciated. Thank you.
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My pleasure
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Gorgeous photos and great info. So nice to be taken away to a different place. Thank-you for sharing!
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The pleasure’s all mine
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beautiful place and great info! thanks, Sheree 🙂
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My pleasure
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I was really surprised that the Basque area of France is still very Spanish. I have only been to the Basque area of Spain so can kind of imagine how beautiful this area is. It does look lovely. Lyn
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I wouldn’t call it « Spanish » as such, just that the two areas have many similarities in terms of food, building styles, culture, language etc They’re just Basque!
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Sigh. We should have just been in Biarritz – but had to cancel due to you know what!
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That’s a shame but it’ll still be there in all its glory when you know what is over.
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A nice advocacy
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Thanks Derrick
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Lovely photos! I would love to visit. Thank you for taking me on a virtual visit.
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My pleasure
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Wow, you have planted a seed of another place I must visit!
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I love the southwest of France. Make it a longer trip as there are so many lovely places to visit, plus it’s not too far from Bordeaux and Arcachon.
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A really weird thing happened while in Biarritz .Walking with my family close to the beach A wind got up out fof the blue and started to move restaurant furniture 10-20 metres towards the sea front. Everyone ran and some people screamed then in an instant it stopped .Strange event. Surfing event on at the time .Beautiful place.
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That was wierd!
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Ohhh I wanna go!! Thanks for the great info and lovely photos, Sheree! 🌞🦋🐝
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