Postcard from Piedmont: Part V

Truffles are tubers that grow a few centimetres/inches underground. They thrive close to roots of hardwood trees like oaks, hazelnut and chestnut. While all truffles are deeply valued, the white truffle from Alba (a particular species called tuber magnatum) is the most desired for its unforgettable flavour. They have a knobby shape, firm flesh, and pale golden colour. White truffles are sought after for their larger size, limited quantity and quality of taste.

The golden, spongy tuber boasts pleasantly pungent aromas that give way to deep, earthy flavours from its cream-coloured centre.  I love to shave the truffle in paper-thin slices over a variety of dishes, from pasta and risotto to eggs and meat and now I’ll be doing it over (some) desserts too.

White truffle season is from September to December when they grow wild in the forests around Alba. In particular, they grow deep in the forests of Langhe, a fertile area in Piemonte perfectly situated between the Tanaro and Po Rivers and the Alps and Apennine mountain ranges. Le Langhe comprises rolling hills filled with vineyards and hilltop towns known for producing great wines, cheeses, and — of course — truffles. The soil is primarily clay and marl, allowing the truffle to grow larger around the roots of oak, poplar and linden trees.

Each truffle is individually sniffed out by a dog, which a professional truffle hunter has trained to detect the unique scent. (Truffles were once hunted by pigs, until the hunters realised that pigs loved them too.) Once the dog reveals the location, the hunter digs out the truffle and gently cleans it before selling it!

How to care for your truffle

Truffles are best enjoyed as fresh as possible, so you can fully experience the full deep aromas and earthy flavors. Don’t wait more than two to three days to enjoy after you receive your whole truffle, and never buy a pre-cut one, unless you plan to use it immediately.

When it comes to storage, avoid moisture at all costs. Place the prized ingredient in clean tissue or kitchen paper or a breathable container at room temperature in a dark space. Change the tissue paper daily to avoid the build-up of moisture and to retain aroma. Do not freeze your truffle: it will accumulate moisture and lose its aroma. I also recommend that you store your truffle on its own. Products like rice or salt will absorb the aroma, so especially avoid them (unless you intend to flavour the rice or salt!).

When it comes to cleaning truffles: do not use water or soap. Instead, remove any dirt with a soft brush. Pro tip: I learned firsthand that official truffle hunters often use a soft toothbrush.

Eat and enjoy your truffle raw (it’s considered a sin to cook the culinary gold!), thinly shaved directly over the finished dish. We recommend about four or five grams (0.2oz) per (very lucky) person.