Yet another postcard from Dubai

It was early February and once again we were in Dubai, ostensibly to attend an exhibition onto which we’d tagged a few days’ vacation. Although it had been sunny at home, it had been very cold and a bit of warmth is always much appreciated at this time of year.

Twin Towers: one’s a hotel, the other’s government offices

We’d returned to one of our favourite hotels, one stop on the Metro from the World Trade Centre where the exhibition is being held. I had booked the flight and hotel well in advance, using soon-to-expire miles to upgrade to Business Class, as I knew it’d be my beloved’s first long-haul flight after his hip replacement. As they say: “The early bird catches the worm.” In this case, it was a great deal on the hotel room and flight.

The Museum of the Future under construction nearby

This time last year I’d watched the week-long Dubai Tour which has now been folded into the UAE Tour, starting later in the month. With no cycling to watch, what was I to do? How would I entertain myself?

Dubai embracing Chinese New Year

While my beloved worked, I whiled away my days around the pool, on the beach at Jumeirah or in the bookshop. Shopping holds little allure, particularly now the same shops are everywhere. I’m a huge disappointment to my two siblings, both dedicated shoppers. However, the opportunity to spend hours in a bookshop with English language books is too golden to pass up, plus this one in the Dubai Mall has one of the biggest selections of cookery books I’ve ever seen. And, yes, a few made it back to France in my luggage.

The fountains only dance at night, floodlit

Usually, during the exhibition I’ll join my beloved, and any clients, for dinner in the evening. But this time he had a colleague lecturing at the exhibition so I left the pair of them to entertain the clients.  This enabled me to chill all day and enjoy a spot of me time. Such a treat!

Like France, the UAE is big on civic art

I decided some pampering was in order, including a pedicure at a local beauty salon where I was the only Westerner. I was shocked at how rude the Middle Eastern customers were to the largely Eurasian staff. Do unto others as you would have others do unto you is my motto.

Hotel lobby early morning, embracing Saint Valentine’s Day

Of course, once the exhibition was over, I got my beloved all to myself. Typically in the evenings we’d dine at a few of our favourite spots plus try a few new ones. Thursday evening is the start of the week-end in Dubai and we managed to secure the last table at a restaurant adjacent to the hotel where we considerably upped the average age of its clientele!

You never know who you’ll bump into in Dubai!

It was a largely Mediterranean style menu with Asian overtones. We had a fantastic meal, definitely another one for our list. The only slight downside was the music. We loved their selection but it was way too loud, too loud to talk over. And, although we’ve been married for more years than I care to own up to, we still enjoy a good chat over dinner.

Brunching

The following day, I’d booked brunch at one of our regular haunts, the nearby Ritz Carlton. As you know, my beloved and I are keen brunchers. We brunch all over the world. This was on a par with its sister hotel in Chicago but with better weather and a BBQ. The seafood was superb and I much enjoyed the lobster. The trick with brunch is to wear comfortable clothing; I favour trousers with either loose or elasticated waists. You also need to pace yourself.

Lotus eating in style on Jumeirah Beach

We spent our last week-end largely lazing on the beach. The temperature was just perfect and it was fun watching the bird life. Aside from the gulls and ubiquitous pigeons, there were some hugely amusing song birds and one with an orange bum and Elvis quiff. I suspect the birds were on the lookout for leftovers from beachside snacks but most days there were slim pickings. The staff would quickly dart out to pick up the used plates as soon as any customers finished eating. Didn’t stop the birds circling, probably more in hope than expectation.

Not a bad view from the bedroom window

As you know, I love sunsets and sunrises. There’s something quite magical about sitting on a really sandy beach  – ours at home is stoney – to watch the setting sun. One minute the world’s aglow and the next minute the sun’s slipped below the horizon and darkness reigns.

Burj Al Arab from Mina A’Salam

Dubai lit up at night is also a sight worth seeing with its most prominent buildings lit up against the skyline. Although there are plenty of magnificent skyscrapers, my favourite buildings are the mosques with their traditional carved sandstone or tiles exteriors, domes and minarets. I also love hearing the haunting, five-times a day call to prayer.

Forthcoming delights

We’ve made many visits to Dubai over the years but have never ventured to Abu Dhabi. This time we visited both the Blue Mosque and the Louvre, but those visits are tales for subsequent posts.

Postcard from Dubai: Part I

We eased ourselves into our trip to Australia with a stopover in Dubai. Not our maiden visit by any means, though many of our previous trips there have involved a mixture of business and pleasure. That said, we did spend a wonderfully relaxing Christmas and New Year there in 2003, staying at The One and Only. This time we were only there for four days and, of course, my beloved scheduled a day long business meeting.

Still, that left three days R&R which was just long enough to check on Dubai’s ever-changing skyline, mooch around one of its many malls and indulge in a spot of sunbathing around the pool and down at the beach. It’s no exaggeration to say we’ve already done Dubai. We’ve had many trips into the desert, sailed around Dubai Creek, visited the old town, gold and spice souks, the Palm, and watched the tennis, golf and horseracing. We’ve visited various areas of the city, spent way too much time in the exhibition centre, plus stayed and eaten at lots of hotels and restaurants.

My sisters “discovered” Dubai over 20 years’ ago and they still regard it as the perfect holiday destination, providing that beguiling mix of sunshine and shopping in a safe, 5* environment. It’s true that Dubai has lots of positives including great weather, fantastic hotels, a very safe environment for women on their own and families. Plus, there’s plenty to see and do for the whole family.

Now let’s head back to the start of out trip. As regular travellers, we know the drill at Nice airport but they seemed to have stepped up security since our last visit a week or so ago. Customs deemed my sealed plastic bag of liquid samples to be too large and insisted the contents had to be decanted into a smaller one. Our iPads had to go through Security open and my beloved had to dismantle his camera and lenses. I was tested for traces of explosives. But it’s hard to feel aggrieved when you know it’s for your protection. As anticipated, the Emirates flight passed smoothly and I caught up on all the latest cartoons: Finding Dory, Secret Life of Pets and Kung Fu Panda 3.

In Dubai our upgrade fairy godmother smiled on us again and we lucked out with a junior suite on the Executive floor of the hotel which gave us access to the Executive Lounge where we ate breakfast, afternoon tea, cocktails and canapes for free!  That’s right, we didn’t spend a single dirham outside of the cost of our room!

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The hotel had a shuttle bus to the Dubai Mall where we marveled at the many opportunities to melt one’s credit card. We both quickly tired of the razzle, dazzle shops and, after marvelling at the aquarium, gravitated to the top floor which houses an amazing bookstore with quite possibly the largest collection of cookery books I’ve ever seen, and that’s going some. It leapfrogs over Dymocks in Sydney, Barnes & Noble Union Sq NYC and Waterstones in Picadilly London right into my top spot.

Of course, no trip to the Dubai Mall would be complete without heading outside to watch the fabulous orchestrated fountain display. I now have a confession to make. We’ve never been up the Burj Khalifa largely because I don’t like heights, at all. I spend most of my time in Dubai avoiding those omnipresent glass  lifts and steering clear of floor to ceiling windows.

I lazed around the pool on Sunday while my beloved was at his business meeting. Yes, It’s a working day in Dubai. The lazing about continued over the next two days albeit down at Jumeirah Beach where I paddled along the shoreline and read a few books in the shade. So there you have it, idleness aplenty! All too soon our break was over and  we were on our way to Melbourne.

Unlike last year, we didn’t score an upgrade on the flight to Melbourne, I hope my fairy godmother is saving that for the overnight trip home. This time, having already exhausted the cartoons, I plundered Emirates’ excellent music selection and dozed. I can sleep pretty much anywhere, anytime.

Postcards from Dubai I

My days have fallen into a similar and comfortable rhythm. I breakfast with my beloved before he heads off to the exhibition. I spend an hour or so reading all the freebie newspapers, including The Financial Times in the hotel lobby. My enthusiasm undiminished by the proliferation of bad news, I head for the gym to wear off last night’s dinner. A quick hour in the sunshine and then back to the laptop to write a blog entry for Velovoices. She’s a demanding new mistress and, with events coming thick and fast, it’s time-consuming just keeping up, let alone getting ahead. I’m trying to profit in my cycling-club free moments to bank a few blog entries.

Job done, I treat myself to a cup of coffee and a spot of people watching. Dubai’s a fascinating place. Over 85% of the residents hail from elsewhere and I like trying to guess where they’re from. As the various Arab gentlemen stroll around looking quite magnificent in their traditional robes, the kandura, I can tell from their headwear from whence they came.  The ladies are more difficult as most wear a slimming, black abaya, often beautifully decorated with embroidery or crystals.  Many also wear the face concealing niqab, so very handy if you’re having a “bad  hair” day or you’ve an outbreak of spots. However, it’s essential that you find time to do your eye make up so as to look alluringly enigmatic.

I then stroll back to meet my beloved. We discuss his day at the exhibition to the strains of the call to prayer as the sun sets, which I always find quite haunting. Dinner is mostly with clients or friends. We eschew the ubiquitous buffets on offer in many of the hotel restaurants, electing to head out on foot or by monorail to find something more traditional. I enjoy middle-eastern food, why come all this way to eat Italian?

My beloved and I have been visiting Dubai for the past ten years, largely on business trips, and have stayed at a number of different hotels. But, with the horrendous traffic jams, it makes sense to stay as close to the World Trade Centre as possible to ease his working day. I’m quite happy pottering about the area. On previous visits I’ve been into the desert, around the creek, walked along the beach, visited the mosque, watched Nadal play tennis and Tiger Woods play golf, window shopped in the malls, mosied around the gold and spice souks and wandered around the art galleries and traditional village. I can’t claim to have seen and done everything that Dubai has to offer but I’m slowly getting there. Here’s one of my favourite sights, the Burj Khalifa Fountains.

But don’t take my word for it, check out what else Dubai has on offer here:

Interactive map of Dubai